Hair Care Facts - Hair Care Information - Hair Care Treatments
Hair care is the process of improving the appearance of hair by cleansing, condition, coloring, or styling. Modern hair care is blend of science and marketing with hundreds of companies offering thousands of products to solve every possible hair care need.
People have long used soap and water for basic hair cleansing, and this practice is still used today. However, in the last 100 years a number of products have come into fashion which were specially designed to clean hair and leave it in a manageable condition. These products are known as shampoos and instant conditioners. Shampoo, a word derived from the Hindi word for massage, dates to 1877, when English hairdressers boiled soap in soda water and added herbs for health, fragrance, and manageability. Over the last few decades shampoos have become increasingly sophisticated. Synthetic surfactants have, for the most part, replaced soap-based materials. These products are capable of gently and effectively cleansing a variety of hair types. In the 1970s and 1980s Proctor and Gamble revolutionized hair care with the introduction of the two-in-one shampoo plus conditioner. Their patented formulas are capable of cleansing and conditioning in a single step. Many other manufacturers followed with two-in-one formulas of their own and in 1997 such products accounted for approximately 20% of the shampoo market.
In addition to shampoos, instant conditioners, or cream rinses as they were once known, continue to enjoy popularity in the market place. These products are used after shampooing to smooth the hair and make it more manageable. Originally natural oils were used for this purpose. For example, during the late Victorian era, macassar oil from Indonesia was used to condition men's hair. Unfortunately, this greasy substance sparked a need for the antimacassar, a crocheted doily pinned to the back of chairs and sofas to absorb excess oil and protect upholstery. The turn of the century brought a flurry of inventions and discoveries for hairdressing., and at the Paris Exposition of 1900 E. D. Pinaud advertised a brilliantine for softening hair, beards, and moustaches. In the last 90 years, chemists have learned how to formulate non-greasy conditioning products using silicones, quaternary ammonium compounds, and fatty alcohols, which can condition hair without weighing it down.
Hair care also involves technology to reshape hair into specific styles. A number of nineteenth-and twentieth-century inventions were designed to make hair styling easier, more effective, longer lasting, and more natural looking. For instance, in 1866, Hiram Maxim invented the first curling iron. Four years later, two Frenchmen, Maurice Lentheric and Marcel Grateau, used hot-air drying and heated curling tongs to make deep, long-lasting Marcel waves. Twenty years later, Alexandre F. Godefroy, a French hairdresser, invented the hair dryer, composed of a bonnet attached to a flexible chimney that extended to a gas stove.
In 1905, Sarah Breedlove Walker created a cosmetic industry in Indianapolis, Indiana, and became the first African-American female millionaire in America by inventing a method for straightening hair, using an emollient cream and hot combs. In 1906, Charles L. Nessler, a German hairdresser working in London, applied a borax paste and curled hair with an iron to produce the first permanent waves. This costly process took twelve hours. Eight years later, Eugene Sutter adapted the method by creating a dryer containing twenty heaters to do the job of waving more efficiently. Sutter was followed by Gaston Boudou, who modified Sutter's dryer and invented an automatic roller. By 1920, Rambaud, a Paris beautician, had perfected a system of curling and drying permed hair for softer, looser curls by using an electric hot-air dryer, an innovation of the period made by the Racine Universal Motor Company of Racine, Wisconsin. Products have been made to style hair and improve grooming as well.
One of the most significant breakthroughs came in 1945, when French chemist Eugene Schueller of L'Oréal laboratories combined the action of thioglycolic acid with hydrogen peroxide to produce the first cold permanent wave, which was cheaper and faster than the earlier hot processes. By relaxing the bonds in hair protein, the process changed the configuration of the hair structure and reset it in curled form by means of oxidation. Cosmetologists learned how to control the amount of curl by varying the diameter of rods used for rolling. In related developments, Rene Lelievre and Roger Lemoine invented an electric curling iron in 1959 and the next year a Danish inventor, Aren Bybjerg Pederson, created thermal hair rollers.
Hair coloring technology has become increasingly popular in the last 50 years. Chemist Eugene Schueller invented the first "para" hair dye from paraphenylene-diamene. By 1927, through the addition of organic materials, hair dyes had become brighter and more natural-looking than Schueller's first attempts were. In 1953, the process of bleaching and dyeing hair was reduced to one step. Today, hair colors can be done on a temporary, semipermanent, or permanent basis.
Technology to hold hair in place was advanced in 1960 when L'Oréal laboratories introduced a polymer hair spray to serve as an invisible net. These polymers were originally dispersed in alcohol formulations which dried quickly to form small weld spots at the junctures where hair strands meet, locking the hair style in place. In the mid 1990s hair spray formulators were challenged by environmentally motivated legislation that mandated that alcohol and other volatile organic compounds be reduced in hair spray formulations. This requires formulators to create high quality products without the benefit of quick drying solvents such as alcohol.
Another important aspect of hair care is the treatment of hair loss. This is a key area of concern for many men and some women and it received a boost in the 1950s from New York dermatologist Norman Orentriech's technique of transplanting plugs of from four to ten hairs each from the scalp to sections of sparse-growth. The placement of plugs requires no stitching, only pressure to assure clotting and proper seating in the new location. Achieving coverage usually involves ten to fifteen once-or twice-weekly sessions in which twenty plugs are moved. The grafting process, which can be performed in a doctor's office, requires local anesthetic. Despite the pain, expense, and possibility of the hair growing in the wrong direction, the procedure is popular both in Europe and the United States. Louis Feit, a New York plastic surgeon, evolved a more drastic approach to hair replacement by grafting a single plot of tissue containing 350 to 500 hairs. His method, which spurs blood supply to the transplant, improves success rates. Another innovation, the use of antiandrogens, encourages the body to produce hair naturally. In mid 1990s the FDA approved the use of a Minoxidil, a topical over the counter drug solution, for use in treating male pattern baldness. In 1998, Propecia, a pill, was approved for the same purpose.